Hide

Jonathan Gold rides the waves of dim sum at Longo Seafood Restaurant in Rosemead

Dim sum at its best is a total-immersion experience — the quest for a number, the long wait in the restaurant lobby and then the explosion into the dining room itself, likely to be the largest enclosed space you have stepped into that month — an ocean of voices that overwhelms you long before you sit down. You are likely at a table that is too big for you (unless you are 10), or a bit too small (if you happen to be four). Tea is plonked on the table, probably before you think to order your favorite jasmine or pu’er. At least one of your kids has already run off to study the giant crabs in the seafood tank. Unless you are at one of the old-fashioned places with the pushcarts, you are handed a golf pencil and ...