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Uovo is a fast-pasta concept that actually works, Jonathan Gold admits

Sometimes I think that the closest thing I have to a hobby is making spaghetti all’Amatriciana, the queen of the Roman repertoire, a dish that has inspired me to sneak in cured pig cheek from Norcia, bottled tomatoes from the slopes of Vesuvius, pecorino from Pienza and onions from Alife. The list of ingredients is short, the technique easy and the cost of entry low. The results are never the same twice. And by the time you absorb advice from people admonishing you to caramelize the tomatoes or not, dicing the guanciale or cutting it into thick strips, use red onions, yellow onions or no onions at all, you might as well be one of those guys who sleeps all night outside next to his $2,500 competition smoker. The ...